Axis of Adventure: Nigel Richardson in Iran

There are countries in the world that we know only through the prejudice of others; countries that we are encouraged to avoid. In a new series, Telegraph.UK writers will be visiting three of them. First Nigel Richardson learns the truth about Iran.

The flight landed at Tehran early in the morning. Those first few hours were fluidly dream-like, setting the tone for the rest of the trip. I slid through immigration with a stamp for my passport and a smile for me, then Mr Sassan - my fixer, minder and joker on this 10-day journey through Iran - scooped me up and tore me around his sprawling, honking, snow-bound capital. read the rest ...